What We Were Wearing - Fall 1961

50 years ago this month, this is what women were wearing.

Oleg Cassini

Perhaps the biggest influence on fashion here in the States, Jackie Kennedy personified the ladylike look most women tried to achieve.  Simple sheath dresses were very popular.

Jean Patou

Elegant suits had shorter and boxier jackets with 3/4 sleeves and big buttons.

Handmacher

Pillbox hats were the latest craze for the head, but hats were dwindling in popularity.  Long gloves were worn with suits and coats that had 3/4 sleeves.  Simple coats with fur wedding ring collars were everywhere.

Sue Brett

Full skirted dresses were having their last hurrah.  They were shorter in length and would disappear within a year or two.

Sweater by Braemar, pants by Geist & Geist

Skinny pants for casual wear were sometimes made of knits.  They were paired with sweaters or blouses.

Edward Abbott

Brocade was big.  Cocktail dresses were usually simple sheaths in opulent fabrics or full skirted styles in chiffon.

Pierre Balmain

Evening gowns usually had simple lines and were made of luxurious fabrics.  Brocades and heavy satins were most popular.  Every woman had or wanted a mink stole or jacket for evening.

Van Raalte

No matter what she was wearing on top, a woman in 1961 always wore a bra and girdle.  A slip was always worn under dresses and suits.

White Mink Jacket, 1961

Famous Parisian furrier Maurice Kotler designed this mink jacket in Emba Jasmine white mink fur in 1961.  Notice anything unusual?  The opening of the jacket is in the back.  You may wonder if the model is just wearing the jacket backwards for the photo, but I doubt the sleeves would fit correctly if she were.  It also looks like she may have her hand in a pocket.  Whichever way you wear it, though, it certainly is luxurious!

Simply Superb Sheaths - 1961

 Take a simple sheath and jazz it up with fabulous design details for an out-of-this-world look that never goes out of style.  The looks today are from 1961.  Which is your favorite?

Above:  Guy Laroche encircles beige wool tweed with a button-on belt of brown satin.

 Nina Ricci adds an attached sash at the hips.

 David M. Goodstein puts little pleated bows at the neckline and waist of this wool crepe dress.

 Turn silk plaid on the bias and add a bit of blouson to the bodice.  Saks Fifth Avenue private label.

Sophie of Saks adds embroidered circles to the front of this mohair/wool blend sheath.

Design Piracy is Not New

Fashion designers have long looked to historical garments and to Paris couture for inspiration.  But when one designer copies the work of another line for line, that is known as design piracy.   CFDA President Diane von Furstenburg is currently leading the fight to have Congress adopt the Design Piracy Prohibition Act here in the US.  In 2009, von Furstenburg settled a suit out of court with Canadian label Mercy when it was found one of her design assistants copied a floral jacket from Mercy's Spring 2008 line.  Von Furstenburg was reportedly devastated by the embarrassing incident, especially considering that the designer is herself suing Target for copying her own designs.

Design piracy is not a recent phenomenon, though.  It just didn't get exposed as often without the instant news we now get on the internet.  Take the example of the dress shown above by Claire McCardell from Spring 1958. The bias cut pale gray Irish linen dress skims the body and is accented with white piping at the neckline and pockets. This dress was included in the line that was to be McCardell's last, and much of it was designed by Mildred Orrick and Arnold Scaasi due to McCardell's ill health.  In fact, by the time the above photo was published in June of 1958, McCardell had already passed from colon cancer. 

Three years later, in 1961, the same fashion magazine featured this shell gray bias cut Irish linen dress that skims the body and is accented with white piping at the neckline and pocket.  The only thing missing is the little bow at the front.  McCardell?  No.  This dress was by Abby Michael, a division of Bobbie Brooks.  Coincidence?  I think not.