Helene Scott - Maternity Designer

Helene Scott started in the fashion industry as a model.  When she became pregnant with her first child, she started designing her own maternity clothing.  She received many positive comments about her designs and decided to start her own business.  These photos are from a two page advertisement by Celanese in 1956.  Scott used Celanese acetate fabrics to make adaptations of European fashion for the American maternity market.   This is how the fashionable woman who was expecting dressed for evening in 1956.

Above:  Scott's adaptation of a suit by Miguel Dorian of Spain.  The silk/acetate blend cape suit is matched with a striped blouse.  Sold for $60 in 1956 (about $500 in today's dollar.)

Scott's adaptation of a design by Simonetta.  Acetate satin dress with back pleats and belt.  Sold for $50 in 1956 (about $417 in today's dollar.)

Scott's adaptation of a Givenchy evening gown in acetate satin.  Sold for $70 in 1956 (about $584 in today's dollar.)

Scott's adaptation of a Sybil Connolly tiered dress in sheer acetate/nylon chiffon.  Sold for $50 in 1956 (about $417 in today's dollar.)

Scott's adaptation of a Norman Hartnell cocktail dress in black acetate crepe with white lace.  Sold for $40 in 1956 (about $334 in today's dollar.)

Little Black Dresses - 1956

Project Runway's Anya is getting on my nerves.  She has a great eye, but without the schooling in design, she clearly can't construct a garment that can be worn right from her sewing machine.  Granted, I'm sure there are plenty of designers who aren't great seamstresses.  But you have to have some idea of how a garment is constructed so you know what fabric will and will not do.  And the wearer has to be able to get in and out of it without glue or scissors!

How about a look at some little black dresses from 1956?  Here's how you take some raven black fabric and make something that can actually be worn.

Balenciaga

Hanna Troy

Elfreda-Visioni

Herbert Sondheim

Adele Simpson

And aren't these dresses a hundred times more feminine?

Paris Fashion for Daytime - 1935

Today, let's continue our look at Paris fashions of the 1930s by checking out some daytime wear from 1935. Which is your favorite?  Look!  I found one photo in color!  The garments above are all from Marcel Rochas. 

I don't know if you can see the detail, but this jacket by Phillipe et Gaston is made from black wool braid that is set on it's side and sewn together in swirls to make the "fabric".  It is trimmed in black Persian lamb fur.

 Lucille Manguin camel wool day dress and short coat.  Note that the coat is completely lined in fur.  I'm not sure if that is seal, mouton, or sheared beaver.

Callot Soeurs offered this gray wool day dress trimmed in sheared lamb fur at the bodice and sleeves.

This Anny Blatt gray and white wool suit was completely knitted by hand by women in the Swiss Alps.  It is trimmed with blue wool felt.

Paris Fashion - 1934

Today we continue our look at Paris fashions of the 1930s.  Here, from 1934, are clothes to take you from day to dinner to evening in style.  Which is your favorite?

Brown wool knit daytime dress with stripe knit accents by Bernard et Cie.

Bruyere made this dinner dress in black wool decorated with black patent leather "jewels".

Charles Frederick Worth gray wool dress with capelet and muff trimmed in gray Astrakhan fur.

Lucile Paray pink silk crepe evening gown trimmed with sable fur.

Callot Soeurs brown silk velvet evening gown trimmed in wolf fur at the hem.

Vintage Dresses with Bolero Jackets, 1956

I've always liked these dress and jacket sets from the 1950s.  You know the ones that have a fitted sheath dress with a darling short bolero jacket.  You get two looks in one with these sets and I always grab them when I find them for Couture Allure.  They are great for those early fall days when you can't decide if you need a coat or not.  Wear the jacket when you're chilly and take it off when it's warm later in the day. The examples shown today are from 1956.

Above, a Paul Sachs Original gray wool sheath dress with a coordinating jacket in black and gray stripes.  Note how Sachs has used the striped fabric to form a border at the edges of the jacket.  Also note how the stripes are perfectly matched at the sleeve seam.   Set sold for $50 in 1956 (about $415 in today's dollar.)

Daryl Creations wool jersey short sleeve dress in autumn rust comes with a bolero jacket in black with rust dots.  Set sold for $30 in 1956 (about $249 in today's dollar.)  I have to say I am coveting that Morris Moskowitz suede handbag.

Masket Bros. navy wool doeskin sheath dress with matching jacket.  Brass buttons set off the simple lines of this ensemble.  Set sold for $55 in 1956 (about $456 in today's dollar.)  Black alligator handbag by Milch.

Chestnut Hill brushed rayon sheath dress and bolero jacket.  Note how the button placket on the jacket becomes a decorative element with the curved extension.  Set sold for $30 in 1956 (about $249 in today's dollar.)  Spotted fur bag and ascot by Winter Furs.

Daryl faille dress and jacket were available in black, red, green, gray, taupe, slate or brown.  Ribbed faille is a fabric that can go from day to evening with ease.  Love all the buttons!  Set sold for $25 in 1956 (about $207 in today's dollar.)

Dark Cottons for Late Summer, 1954

One of the best ways to transition your wardrobe from summer to fall is to wear lightweight fabrics like cotton and rayon in darker colors.  Rich brown, rusty orange, warm navy and gray will all work well to keep you cool while toning down the "heat" of bright tropical colors that worked so well just weeks before.  Plaids and stripes also look more formal than the florals of summer.  Today's dresses are from 1954.

Above, a gray cotton stripe dress by Anne Fogarty.  Sold for $40 in 1954 (about $336 in today's dollar.)

This Nantucket Naturals cotton dress is made from a woven plaid that is cut on the bias for the full skirt.  Sold for $35 in 1954 (about $294 in today's dollar.)

 Another Nantucket Naturals dress, this one in deep orange-red edged in black braid.  Sold for $35 in 1954 (about $294 in today's dollar.)

These striped cotton dresses were sold by Peck & Peck.  They came in gray with pink stripes, brown with blue stripes or navy with red stripes.  Dress at top sold for $36 in 1954 (about $302 in today's dollar.)  Dress at bottom sold for $26 in 1954 (about $218 in today's dollar.)

I recently listed this 1950s cotton dress on the site that is a perfect example of what I'm talking about.  Deeper colors, but still in a lightweight cotton.  It's the perfect dress to take you from right now on through the fall!  Available at Couture Allure for $145.00 and it's generously sized too!

How do you transition your wardrobe from summer to fall?

Summer Cover-up Dresses - 1958

Tell me honestly, would you have guessed 1958?  Not I!  If I found any of these cover-up dresses, I would have guessed mid to late 1960s based upon their short length and shift style.  Just goes to show, you learn something new every day.  Above, Greta Plattry striped cotton tunic length dress with matching shorts in green and blue stripes.  Set sold for $20 in 1958 (about $156 in today's dollar.)  Mr. John hat.

 Black and white striped cotton dress with drawstring waist by Toni Owen.  Sold for $10 in 1958 (about $78 in today's dollar.)  Hat by Mr. John.

 John Weitz terrycloth tunic dress with fringed hem and sash belt.  Sold for $14 in 1958 (about $109 in today's dollar.)

 Greta Plattry short dress with matching panties in tiers of white eyelet cotton.  Wow, this really looks late 60s or even early 70s to me!  Sold for $40 in 1958 (about $311 in today's dollar.)

Haymaker sleeveless dress with shirt tail hem.  Sold for $14 in 1958 (about $109 in today's dollar.)

Why Can't I Find a 50s Dress That Will Fit Me?

James Galanos, 1955

That's the#1 question I get in my inbox. Other versions are, "Why are the waist sizes on all your 50s dresses so tiny?" or "My measurements are 36-30-37 (or 42-37-44, or 39-33-38). Do you have a 50s dress that will fit me?" In fact, I get this question so often, I am going to address it here for all of you who have been frustrated in your search for an authentic vintage dress.

The fact of the matter is, the industry standard for measurements in the 1950s was a 10" difference between the bust and waist. That means if you find a dress with a 36" bust measurement, 9 times out of 10, that dress will have a waist that measures 26". If you don't have a waist that is 10" smaller than your bust (and believe me, most of us modern women don't), that explains why you're having a difficult time in your search.

So what's a gal to do? Here are some suggestions to help you overcome the obstacles.

#1 - Consider foundation garments.

Yes, a girdle. In the 1950s, every woman wore one nearly every day starting in her teens. If you'd been wearing a girdle from the age of 15 or so, you'd likely have a tiny waist too, as it would have been trained into shape! I've talked about the importance of wearing foundation garments with your vintage dresses before. If your waist is only 1"-2" larger than what it needs to be to fit into that dress, wearing a strong girdle or waist cincher may be just what you need to get that dress to fit. I'm not talking about Spanx or shapewear. They just won't give enough support. Here are some suggestions for finding the correct modern foundation garment for you.

#2 - Consider separates.

If you can't find a dress that will work, consider separates. Look for a vintage skirt that will fit your waist and pair it with a blouse, a knit top, or a jacket that fits your bust. Voila!

#3 - Consider a dress from the 60s instead.

Pierre Cardin, 1966

By the mid-to-late 60s, women were moving away from wearing a girdle at all times, and styles moved to a more relaxed waistline. If there is a 6" or less difference between your bust and waist measurements, your body type may be more suited to a shift or empire waisted style from the 1960s. Try it!

#4 - Have a dress altered to fit you.

Many vintage dresses were made with the understanding that the new owner would have the garment altered for a custom fit. As such, they are often made with sufficient seam allowances to let a dress out at the waist by 1"-2" or more. You can also consider letting out the back darts in the bodice to gain more room, although this sometimes leaves visible needle marks in the fabric. A talented seamstress can add narrow panels into the side seams to let out the waist even more. While an alteration like this is not invisible, it is a workable option if you need to let out a dress more than 3". Before buying, ask the seller how deep the seam allowances are or if there is sufficient fabric in the hem to cut narrow bands for those extra panels.

#5 - Sew your own or have a dress custom made.

Vogue Pattern 1172

Most of the major pattern companies now offer modern reissues of vintage styles. And vintage patterns abound on the web. If you can sew and know how to alter a pattern to fit, making your own dress is a great option. If you are going to use a vintage pattern, you'll likely have to know how to grade the pattern up or down to fit your size. If you can't sew, find a good custom dressmaker in your area to do the job for you.

I hope these suggestions help you in your search! If you have another to add, please post it in the comments!

David Crystal Dresses, 1955 #2

Today we continue our look at the 8 dresses by David Crystal that were sold in some of America's finest department stores in 1955.

Cotton striped sheath in blue, brown, or pink on white. The Halle Bros. Co. in Cleveland carried the dresses. Sold for $29.95 in 1955 (about $244.00 in today's dollar.)

This silk shantung full skirted dress featured polka dot accents at the neckline and sleeve cuffs. It came in black or navy with red polka dots or beige with brown dots. Hudson's in Detroit carried the line. Sold for $45.00 in 1955 (about $366.00 in today's dollar.)

Pleated stripes with lots of movement in rayon. The dress came in pink, navy, or aqua with white stripes. Burdines in Florida carried the line. Sold for $25.00 in 1955 (about $203.00 in today's dollar.)

Double breasted full skirt dress in Dacron/rayon blend checks. The dress came in navy, black, brown, or red with white checks. Julius Garfinckel in Washington, D.C. carried the line. Sold for $39.95 in 1955 (about $325.00 in today's dollar.)

I'm hard pressed to choose a favorite, but I really like the first silk printed one from yesterday. And the simple dress with matching sweater. The polka dots are really nice. And stripes are always fun................

David Crystal Dresses, 1955 #1

When I say the name David Crystal, what comes to mind are the polyester dresses he made for Izod LaCoste in the 1960s. But the David Crystal label meant quality dresses, suits, and separates from the time the company began in 1906. In 1955, the David Crystal company took out an 8 page advertisement that featured 8 dresses for spring and resort. Each page featured a different high end department store that carried all 8 dresses. I'll show you the pages today and tomorrow. Which one is your favorite?

Gray or blue floral print on white silk surah fashions this classic shirtwaist dress. Bergdorf Goodman, arguably the finest department store in America, carried these dresses. Sold for $49.95 in 1955 (about $406.00 in today's dollar.)

A button front sheath in Tootal linen was offered in ice blue, pink, white, black, and orange. I. Magnin carried the line. Sold for $39.95 in 1955 (about $325.00 in today's dollar.) Want that handbag!

This darling rayon dress came with a coordinating wool sweater in pink, blue or beige. Thalimer's of Richmond carried the line. Sold for $49.95 in 1955 (about $406.00 in today's dollar.)

White polka dots on red, brown, gray, or navy silk shantung. Neiman Marcus carried the line too. Sold for $55.00 in 1955 (about $448.00 in today's dollar.)

I love the drawings, don't you? Unfortunately, there is no credit given to the artist.